You say syrah, I say 设拉子
葡萄酒商店的货架上堆满了克拉雷（Claret），勃艮第（Burgundy），福克（Hock），夏布利（Chablis），索特（Sauternes），波特（Port）和雪利酒（Sherry），这些名字都带有欧洲内涵，与澳大利亚的任何身份都几乎没有关系。For me, the issue is why you would want to divorce your wines from such an 在credibly successful marketing name as 设拉子.
Times changed. Varietal 和 regional labelling became the norm, due both to changing attitudes 和 European annoyance at having their names stolen. 酒红 和 勃艮第酒, two 澳大利亚n wine types that had always been made predominantly from 设拉子, disappeared.
设拉子 vines, ancestrally sourced from 法国西拉 vines, came to be known as 澳大利亚’s own red wine variety, 和 the word 设拉子 took centre stage on wine labels 和 在 the hearts of consumers.
As the world came to discover the high quality 和 great value 澳大利亚n 设拉子 represented, the word 设拉子 became synonymous with 澳大利亚n wine. Sales boomed 和 our wine 在dustry prospered.
What other elaborately manufactured 澳大利亚n product combines agricultural excellence, leading production know-how, 和 technical expertise 在 the same way as 设拉子? What word says “Australia” as clearly to the world?
Yet these days we see an 在creasing number of 澳大利亚n 设拉子 wines labelled with the variety’s French varietal name “syrah.” Makers who do so claim various reasons for doing so.
Some of those that I’ve spoken to tell me that it’s because their wines are more European 在 style. Others say they want to distance themselves from brawny, oaky, super-ripe 澳大利亚n 设拉子. Some paint it as a generational thing – 设拉子 is old hat, syrah is now.
具有讽刺意味的是，我遇到的第一个澳大利亚“西拉”是 罗斯蒙特巴尔莫勒尔 over twenty-five years ago, a super-ripe 迈凯轮谷 设拉子 given plenty of new American oak treatment – about as far from 法国西拉 as you could go.
For me, the issue is why you would want to divorce your wines from such an 在credibly successful marketing name as 设拉子. It usually takes years, plenty of blood, sweat 和 tears, 和 a huge amount of luck to successfully establish a worldwide brand.
In the 澳大利亚n story, 设拉子 occupies unique positioning 在ternationally 和 at home. Be proud of it, revel 在 its success.
If a winery produces 设拉子 that’s out of the norm, they should educate consumers, modify tastes, market accordingly, not throw the baby out with the bathwater 通过 calling it syrah.